Sightseeing

Private Guest House outside Nairobi Kenya - Shimei House

First, let me say, I love Kenya.  I love the people, the safari and the coastal islands.  Plus, I have good friends there.

But there is one thing I don't love is living and driving in the city of Nairobi.  If you have ever been there, you will know.  That is why I am so excited about this opportunity.  Shimei House, located outside of Nairobi, Kenya in the Ngong Hills.  I can stay in a private guest house and still have access to the city only when I want. 

Shimei House is a private guest house, complete with a full-time housekeeper, a chef and a private driver.  They provide transport to and from the airport, as well as excursions back into town, to the Masai Mara, and other places as well. 

I can invite my friends for a party, get married, have a business function, all within my very own house.  Much better than a hotel or just roughing it. 

Fabienne - The Nervous Traveler -
in Jamaica 6

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Negril

Business was over. Now it was time for fun! We were off to Negril, which is another hour drive from Mo Bay. The drive was smooth and enchanting. KnowJamaica was at the wheel, and we were softly humming Bob Marley’s most famous jams before switching to some more modern music. After we stopped for a bathroom break at a little rest stop area, I fell asleep. When I woke up again, it was raining…

I tried hard not to be upset, but I couldn’t believe that the rain was actually interfering with my discovery of Negril. I was looking forward to this for so long! The sun was well-tucked behind dark clouds, and when we arrived at destination (a little beach-side hotel opened to the public), it still wasn’t out.

Negrilfabienne However, when I saw the beach, I naturally decided to put any hard feelings behind. My swimsuit was already on. We dumped our towels on a few chairs, claiming our seats at the restaurant/bar, and we ran into the water. By then, it was drizzling. I had stopped fussing and appreciated the charming splashes of raindrops on the water surface. The rain fell like a crystal curtain on the ocean, which was surprisingly salty. And then, timidly, the sun came out to play, caressing the surface of the water. For a minute, it was like swimming (or in my case, hanging on to Deuce for dear life) in a pool of mirroring gold. Negrilwater There were very few people on our side of the beach, and in the distance, two lovers swam circles around a fisherman’s boat and played hide and seek. I fell in love with the cool, laid back atmosphere that surrounded me. And I fell in love with Negril.

We stayed in the water for hours, just floating and observing our surroundings. Next door was another Jimmy Buffet’s MargaritaVille, and they were having a great fourth of July bash, jumping up and down on trampolines that were built into giant floating devices. The shore was all lined with little local beachside restaurants and hotels, and the more the hours flew by, the more people came out, Negrilrain walking hand in hand or strolling with their children.

Hunger finally lead us out of the water and drew us back to our table. We ordered some food and ate, and watched the sunset. Again, it was the best I had seen in a long while. Negril is famous for its sunsets. Located on the west side of the island, it’s where tourists and locals all go to watch the sun come down. We witnessed an amazing phenomenon: we saw the sand become pink. Then, it slowly became blue. Then, lavender… What was going on, we wondered? When we looked up, we understood the method behind the madness. The sunset was painting the sky in all different hues, and the sand was reflecting all those changes right before our eyes.

Once the sun had set completely, we went for a walk down the beach. The air was cooler, and everyone seemed more prone to party. MargaritaVille was alive, with a live band playing some well-known tunes. Further down, we encountered beachside villas and hotels, one more luxurious and quaint than the other. And straight ahead, we had a perfect view of the city, lit up like a Christmas tree in the dark. The high tide was in synch with the music around us, and every minute on the dot, the waves came crashing and foaming at our feet. It was night, and we were about to leave Negril.

The drive back was quiet, almost melancholic. The moon was out, and the stars jostled each other up in the midnight sky. We opened our windows to feel the breeze. If you thought Jamaica was splendid by day, you should see it at night. It will take your breath away. The foliage, the glistening waters, the tall coconut trees all seemed to be part of a corner of heaven Rastas might refer to as Zion. This must be the promise land. There was probably no reason to look elsewhere.

I stayed awake until we touched base at RIU. By then, we were exhausted. I was amazed at Javia’s ability to spend a whole day with us, driving, laughing, joking, enriching our minds, opening our eyes, and in the end, staying awake to take us to destination. It was about two p.m. when we got back to our hotel. That was definitely a true example of KnowJamaica’s commitment to its customers. He still had to drive back home…

RIU was still alive with laughter, drinking, and the discotheque was blasting music, inviting us to join the party. But we had had our fun, and our loyalty now lied with our beds…

(Continued...)

Fabienne - The Nervous Traveler -
in Jamaica 5

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Montego Bay

KnowJamaica, our selected driver for our stay in Jamaica, took us to MoBay for our meetings. On the way, he drove through little towns where the Jamaican life suddenly burst before our eyes. We passed Martha Brae, famous for its breathtaking bamboo-river rafting, and we entered the towns of Lucea and Falmouth. There, Javia, our driver, stopped for gas. It was a hassle pulling in front of the right pump, since the taxis had taken over and stalled us plenty. At the station, drivers pay an attendant to pump their gas, old-school style.

Deuce falls asleep for a minute while we drove to Mo Bay. But a lengthy slumber proved difficult. The roads were quite impractical, and we couldn’t quite lean back with our eyes closed. Jamaica_future_walmart_2 There was so much to see on both sides of the road, anyway, including my favorite: Jamaica_island_style_walmart a little wooden and metal sheet shack, brightly painted, as big as a matchbox, called “Future Walmart.” Hilarious!

In Montego Bay, we passed the airport and made our way to the Freeport Shopping Center, which is not an actual shopping center but more of an industrial/office space (I should point out here that Jamaica has more KFCs than I’ve seen in one American city alone. You can smell them a mile away and they’re always crowded, and on the way back, the biggest one was lit up and packed at 10 p.m., on both its stories, drive-thru and courtyard!). After stopping to ask directions and being pointed towards different destinations (passersby literally pointed left and right together), Javia got us to our meeting at Chukka’s office on time. There, we met with heads of marketing who gave us a clear understanding of Chukka Caribbean (who they are, what they do, why they do it the way they do).

The fun part really began when Marlon McPherson, responsible for Chukka’s e-marketing, drove us to the heart of Mo Bay city to Doctor’s Cave, Doctorscave2 a charming little beach front hotel with tourists flock to for a five-dollar admission. Parking proved difficult, so once we passed Jimmy Buffet’s MargaritaVille and the Coral Cliff, we were dropped off at the entrance where we waited for Marlon. Doctorscave1 We were there to see one of Chukka’s most talked-about excursions: Sea Trek.

There was one of the first evidences for me that Chukka was one of the best excursion companies in the Caribbean. Once we met Nelson, the tour manager at the site, we knew he not only knew his job well, but he also had the ability, whether he knew it or not, to put his clients at ease. Montego_baysea_treknelson He greeted us in his wet suit, soaked from head to toe, and gave us a tour of the compression chamber, where the tanks and machineries were regulated and checked thoroughly on a regular basis before they took anyone on their sea trek tour.

Sea Trek literally is a stroll underwater. That’s my definition of it. After we are shown exactly how the compression chamber work, we follow Nelson who points out how the cables run from the chamber to the diving spot. There, a maximum of eight guests receive a safety training, sign a waiver, and are outfitted in their gear, mainly a helmet that sits on your head with edges that act like suction cups on your shoulders. Montego_baysea_trek The helmet does not, however, stick in the front, leaving an empty space where, amazingly enough (truly through the laws of nature), water does not seep. In other words, the air fills in your helmet so that you are breathing natural air while you’re under water. It’s like walking under sea with an air bubble around your head.

The reason why I was thrilled about this tour is that it is perfect for a wuss like me! You do not need to know how to swim, snorkel nor scuba dive to do this, and you can come as close as any diver can to the marine life. You are under 14 feet of water with two professional, knowledgeable, well-trained assistant divers, who make you feel secure and who keep an eye on pressure, comfort and all those little things that you worry about (there’s a ratio of three guests to one safety diver. If there are more than four guests, then two divers and a guide are needed). Whether you’re claustrophobic, hydrophobic, thalassophobic or God knows what, you’ll feel better with Nelson and his fellow guides at Chukka’s Sea Trek tour. Plus, the oxygen tanks and first aid kits are always handy.

As part of your underwater stroll, you will come up close to Jamaica’s marine life and even simulate feeding the fish. I say simulate because as part of Chukka’s motto, nature remains untouched. According to Dominique Peterkin, director of marketing, Chukka’s goal is to “leave nature the way it is and take you into it.” That’s why they do not feed the fish, so they won’t interfere with their eating habits. Also, Chukka grows new coral in the Sea Trek area so that the fish can feed onto natural reefs instead of human food.

By the end of our visit, we were elated. I was excited about coming back to Doc’s Cave to try their Sea Trek adventure. By the way, they call it Doc’s Cave for a reason. There’s an actual cave where locals believe the waters to hold miraculous healing powers. Hence the name…

Back at Chukka, Marlon and Dominique arranged for us to meet with the tour manager of the Zip Line Canopy Tour in Ocho Rios, where we were expected on Saturday for our actual chance at soaring in the jungle. Then, Javia was whisking us away to the town of Redding, in Mo Bay, where we were meeting Gilbert Byles, owner of Caliché Rainforest River Rafting tours.

In his office, pictures and posters of the actual rafting tour cause my heart to flutter. That looked frightening to me… We wanted to see the actual site in Mo Bay, and we wanted to meet the guides, and witness the prepping process. So we got directions to Nature’s Village, ways up in the hills of Montego Bay, where we were to rush and beat the bus loads of cruise ship passengers who were headed the same way to go rafting with Caliché. The directions?

“Go up the long hill, all the way till you reach the third crossing on the right where there’s a grocery shop and a car repair shop on the left. You turn right onto Lethi crossing and from there you travel downhill. You’re looking for Nature’s Village. If you pass the bridge, you’ve gone too far. If you pass the little church made of plywood, you’ve gone too far. Nature Village is on the right.”

After that confusing bit of information, we attempted to follow his directions. The drive uphill was both intimidating and breathtaking. The road was narrow enough for one vehicle. So it was a wonder to me how two cars made it, somehow creating an imaginary set of lanes. On the right of us, the mountain. On the left, cliffs. But I could hardly dwell on those precipices when my eyes kept traveling up to those tall, imposing leafy bamboos, the thick fern forests and other foliage that grew everywhere and formed a fragile semi-barrier between the cliff and the road.

Mr. Byles’ direction turned out to be right on the money. We go to the car repair (more of a junkyard, really) and the shop on the right, where two men were sitting, contemplating the wonders of life (namely us gracing them with our presence). We asked them where Lethi road was, and they both pointed (surprise, surprise) to the right. The drive up was even scarier and more amazing. No matter how desolate and impractical the road, the scenery was always glorious and entertaining. A farmer’s land was planted with banana trees and dead coconut trees (apparently, a rare and peculiar disease had ravaged thousands of coconut trees in Jamaica years back), yet was not at all fenced off. Little shacks on our right served as homes to many, and in their front yard, goats chomped nonchalantly on the green grass. Under his colorful hut, a Rasta was hatching coconuts open with a machete and selling coconut water while his little boy played out front.

Javia showed us what locals referred to as a “pipe stand,” which resembles a faucet firmly planted in the ground in front of a house and serves the same functions as a well. According to Javia, that’s where they come out to tap their water from. That’s why we love KnowJamaica. Even when they’re not cruising down their habitual route, they still use their knowledge to guide their clients. They know their island well and they want to share its beauty with us.

At some point, the road forked into two paths: one going up hill, the other going down. Both looked impractical, and the sign with the red arrow that pointed to Nature’s Village was slanted enough to generate confusion. We opted to drive downhill, and soon, we encountered a group of women making their way uphill. Javia stopped for directions in patois, but made the mistake of calling her “princess.” She sucked her teeth and kept walking. Deuce rolled his window down and asked her again, and finally got her attention. We were on the right path.

Jamaicanatures_village_sm Soon enough, we arrived at Nature’s Village. The location was simply splendid. The vast yards sprawled in green, dotted with coconut trees and other exotic plants, and little outdoor tables and benches. Steps away, a few cabins and gazebos indicated that many events, other than rafting, could be conducted onsite. In the midst of all this, we heard the powerful roar of rushing water. The river beckoned below, commanding all visitors to gear up for the ride. It was the most beautiful river I’d seen in a long time, cascading over rocks and tree trunks, forming occasional pools of jade green water, then flowing again right between the wooden rainforest.

Montego_bayrafting_1 At our arrival, the guides were sitting on their rafts on the grass, expecting cruise ships passengers any minute. The man we were meeting, Veryl, welcomed us with a smile and was more than happy to introduce the guides to us. The most impressive one was of course the head guide, Mackell, also known as The General. Mackell was a tall, reserved man who greets us quite politely. We dipped our feet in the river. Even its texture felt different. It truly felt like velvet against my ankles, more caressing and tender than it sounded mean and merciless.

As soon as we were introduced, the buses arrived, carrying loads of tourists in their bikinis and water shoes (pronounced wa-ta in Jamaica). There, we witnessed first hand The General’s prowess. Montego_bayrafting_5 He had morphed from the quiet individual he seemed to be into a serious, imposing and quite experienced guide. He briefed his group of rafters with all the necessary safety measures (how to sit, how to hold a paddle, how to move, how to respond to commands). Everyone listened quietly. Not a fly flew by. Not a pinned dropped. It was serious business, especially for me who was about to pee in my pants.

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Seriously? We had to sit on the side of the raft? Not in it?

 

As soon as the groups were geared up in life jackets and helmets, and as soon as they took off paddling, “all forward,” Montego_bayrafting_2_2I rushed to the bar and requested a bottle of rum cream to calm my nerves. But it didn’t do much: Veryl came in and showed me the video, on his cell phone, of one of their rafting tour. Montego_bayrafting_7 On the tiny screen, the rafts descended down steep, monstrous, hostile drops where the water seemed unforgiving, and the rafters’ screams as they made their way down filled me with dread. I requested a second rum cream for the road.

(Continued...)

Fabienne - The Nervous Traveler -
in Jamaica 4

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RIU Ocho Rios

Back at RIU, it was back to having drinks and cooling off in the lobby. I give my vote hands down for RIU’s lobby as the best I’ve ever seen. I do have an eye for interior design and décor, and even architectural touches, and this resort flaunted the most handsome receiving space one could ask for, especially in the Caribbean. Jamaica_riu_ocho_rios_lobby  It was spacious enough to hold a thousand guests, and opened up so that the island breeze flowed from the entrance to the other end of the lobby, which lead to the ocean. Here and there, agents settled at little tables to set up their tours, and guests engaged each other in chit chats and card games while reclining on wicker sofas.

We had to drink. Every day. It was inevitable because we could not go up to our room without passing a bar. And they had many: Jamaica_riu_ocho_rios_pool_bar the Reggae pool bar and the Rastafari swim up bar (in the pool, literally, and you can sit around different little tables), the Blue Mountain bar salon (my favorite, because it is hosted by the most joyous and friendliest bartenders of all who take advantage of every opportunity to engage you or dance together while they serve up my Jamaica Rum Cream), the Dunn’s River Plaza bar, and the Sports Bar, open 24/7 and located right underneath us.

And of course, we had to eat. How could we not. RIU boasts six different restaurants to suit all eating habits. Most require reservations, but the St. Ann’s Buffet was surprisingly pleasing and was not as high-brow. The Pizzeria Piccola Italia was opened until two a.m., perfect for my midnight-cravings (their pizzas are small but have quite a kick to them, especially the jalapeno and pepperoni ones).

By the time this vacation would be over, I would need to make it to Mo Bay’s airport in a wheelbarrow. Thank God, RIU’s gym was available for us to work out, and the RIU staff had an extensive list of physical activities for its guests to select from, including water aerobics, soccer, tennis and dance. The real question was, did we work out?

 

July 4, 2007

Wednesday. On the agenda: visiting different tour operations and finding out what they’re all about. It’s a drive to Mo Bay to visit Chukka Caribbean, a mogul in tour operators in the Caribbean.

Chukka is known for its professional, thrilling and eco-friendly tours throughout Jamaica, including Negril, Montego Bay and Ocho Rios (that’s a total of 25 tour sites in Jamaica alone), and in other islands such as the Bahamas, Belize, the Cayman Islands and Turks and Caicos. In fact, they are pinned as the Caribbean’s Leading Nature Adventure Excursion Operator and are one of the top five operators nominated for the 2007 World Travel Awards. Plus, they offer an endless variety of tours: ATV Safaris, Jeep Safaris, Zion Bus Line tours, Horseback Ride and Swim, Zip Line Canopy Tours (which are Green Globe certified), Dogsled experience, Sea Trek Tours, River Kayak, Mountain Bike Adventure, Sting Ray Swim experience, Air Boat tours, Jungle Buggy tours, Dune Buggy Tours and River Tubing. I say endless because they actually launch a new exciting adventure every year. This way, you’re guaranteed to find a tour you really want. There’s something for everybody.

Next on our list will be Caliché Rainforest River Rafting, a company whose white-water rafting is so thrilling, it keeps you on the edge of your seat. Literally. You’ll learn why a little later. But if you’re looking to add a kick to your otherwise smooth vacation, then Caliché’s rafting would be perfect for you. Besides, why wouldn’t you opt for rafting in Jamaica? Caliché will take you on the best, most gorgeous rapids on the island, and this adventure is both fun and educational.

Then, if we had time after our meetings, we would dare a drive to Negril. I could not wait! I had heard so much of Negril’s natural beauty that I initially wanted to dedicate a whole day to it. But since we had so much on our agenda, we had to squeeze it in.

(Continued...)

Fabienne - The Nervous Traveler -
in Jamaica

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I like to think of myself as a traveler, not a tourist. I like to go where the locals go, eat where they eat, party where they party, and all that good stuff. However, I often find myself paralyzed with certain fears, and that unfortunate fact always interferes with my enjoyment of a location. For one, I am terrified of water. I am not a skilled swimmer, and I’ve been plagued with hydrophobia all my life. I am also terrified of heights, movement, spiders, onions cut the wrong way to look like spiders, whole octopus on a plate, and reptiles.

So when we decided to head for Jamaica, Deuce and I, I figured it would be the usual deal: eat at local restaurants, discover the rural areas, purchase artifacts… Then, he mentioned whitewater rafting. I felt my throat clogging up instantly. I’ve been paying my local instructor for as long as I could remember to teach me a few strokes, and I still go into panic mode as soon as the water level reaches my chin. I can’t even sit still for eye drops. The feeling of water on my face usually strips me of common sense.

And then, he said zip line tours, and I had to catch my breath. The very thought of dangling from a cable more than 40 feet above ground was as terrifying to me as riding the Pharaoh’s Boat roller coaster ride at the fair. Last time I did that, I was deprived of oxygen and sanity and vowed never to do it again…

I had always wanted to go to Jamaica. It was a life-long dream. But now that we were close to embarking on the journey and realizing this fantasy, I was a nervous wreck.

This is the tale of two adventure-lovers as they explore the essence of new, exotic locations. Starting with the Caribbean, Deuce and I are mixing with the locals and finding out exactly what this wonderful world we live in is about. First stop: Jamaica, Jamaica…

 

July 2, 2007

We arrive in Montego Bay airport, and I have a smile on my face. Ah, Jamaica. I was ready to hit the beach and drink coconut water by the shore with locals as we listened to Bob Marley. I had envisioned the stereotypical vacation in this island made famous for its rich culture, namely reggae, rum, jerk seasonings, and most of all, the laid-back attitude of its inhabitants. I was given fair warning: “Yeah Man” and “No problem, Man” would soon become part of my language. I was ready.

Boarding off, I was greeted by the source of my very fear. Tour operators like Chukka Caribbean and Dolphin Cove seemed to follow us down the windy halls as we made our way to customs, inviting us to be submerged underwater on a seatrek tour, horseback ride and swim, and surf in the ocean aboard dolphins. Already, I was dreading the experiences.

At the airport, the heat was on. A few fans hummed in the hall, missing us by a hair, barely cooling the thick air that wrapped around us. We slowly realized that we were no longer in the U.S.

“Welcome to the islands,” I said to Deuce as the customs officer stamped our passports.

Down at the carousel, it got worse. There were no fans there, so we stood in the heat, waiting for luggage that never came. My armpits were slowly melting in to a warm swamp of deodorant. In addition, every woman at that airport who flew in from Miami had the same discounted Macy’s luggage in hot pink, making the search for mine a true mission. When I finally zeroed in on mine, I understood that I could no longer make the mistake of buying cheap in order to save, especially when the culprit persisted on falling over under the weight of my assorted underwear.

After minutes of struggling with defective luggage, forgetting to properly fill out and sign our customs forms, and absent-mindedly walking into the men’s restrooms, we were on the bus to Ocho Rios, where we would be staying. There, Deuce and I exchange dreadful glances when our driver announces that the drive to Ocho Rios (Ochi, for the locals) from Mo Bay is actually two hours long. We all assumed it was only minutes away, and Deuce had arranged for meetings early in the morning from Ochi to Mo Bay.

“I messed up,” he said.

Our driver gave us a very lazy semi-tour as he attempted to negotiate the bumpy road. We pass the Ritz Carlton and Half Moon, a destination famous among celebrities. After a couple of these, our driver only speaks to tell us that we can use the rest stop for restrooms and drinks. There, a man asks me if I have dread locks. I tell him no, my hair is simply twisted. He nodded and kept smoking. I was no longer interested.

We bought a box of Pringles of five dollars, and we then spent five more trying to purchase jerk chicken, which turned out to be pieces of poultry cleverly hatched to look like jerk cuts but were smeared in barbecue sauce.

We stopped to drop off tourists to their resorts. Some, like the FDR (Franklin Delano Roosevelt resort), are quaint, charming, hidden among tree branches and blossoming flowers. Others, like the Grand Bahia Principe, are monstrous palaces erected on the ocean shore, with lobbies flooded with travelers.

Ocho Rios

Finally, we reached our destination: Jamaica_riu_ocho_rios RIU Ocho Rios, another giant in St. Anne’s Parish, close to Ocho Rios. RIU is a beauty. The enormous lobby is crafted in fascinating Caribbean architecture, adorned with wrought-iron, wooden signs and chandeliers. This new development is the size of a palace, and as soon as we are settled in, we took off in a search for food. Mammee Bay, one of their venues, was about to close shop when we grabbed a bit to eat.

Later that evening, we were to experience our first tour operator encounter. Know Jamaica, who would be our main driver on the island, met with us to take us in the heart of downtown Ochi. Cruising through this little town, on the left side of the street (in Jamaica, the left side is the right side and the right side is suicide-that statement was validated with the numerous accidents we encountered, most of them involving tourists), we listened to Marva Shaw, director of KnowJamaica, and her son, Javia, as they showed us around.

In Jamaica, every town or parish has their own clock tower marking its center. The one in Ochi was a tall blue tower overlooking the shops, eateries and local businesses. Public transportation consisted of taxis that pick up about five passengers on a route, and inside the vehicles, passengers were hunched up to make room. We passed several arts and crafts shops, and arrived at a big, duty-free shopping center called the Taj Mahal. Marva explained that many tourists visit the Taj Mahal area for their shopping-frenzy.

Ochi was only about 20 minutes away from RIU. Because the town is really small, we made our way around it in about 10 minutes and drove back to the hotel. But this was nothing but a prelude. The excitement was only just beginning. Tomorrow’s destination? Dolphin Cove…

41st Stanford Antigua Sailing Week

20070622_antigua_regatta_3 O.k.  Perhaps I am premature on this.  But I am excited!

Announcing the 41st Annual Sailing Week in Antigua.  Just giving you some heads-up on what is going on so you can start planning accordingly.

If you are unfamiliar, Sailing Week is a big event in Antigua.  Over 200 yachts compete in 16 different classes.  Thousands of people come to witness the races.  Just as important, and as fun, are the events that are planned throughout the week. 

On the morning of the first race (Sunday April 29, 2008), you can eat breakfast at the Look Out and watch the over 200 yachts get ready for the big event.  Follow the boats along the south coast of Antigua until you reach the beautiful beach at Dickenson Bay.  Here is the Dickenson Bay Beach Bash!

This is just the first day!  The whole week is filled with events and concludes on Saturday May 5.  More information can be found on the Official Stanford Antigua Sailing Week website.

Your next question should be; "What is the best way to experience this event?"  My suggestion?  Take your family, or a group of your friends, and hire a private driver.  No need to hassle with parking or renting a car.  Besides, your private driver will know all the activities that are happening.  You can stay with the tourists or see how the locals party during this event.

20070622_scenic_tours The company I recommend is Scenic Tours Antigua.   Scenic Tours Antigua is guaranteed to win you over with its unique brand of environmentally-friendly and cultural experiences.  They can handle your group 2 to 30!   

Sailing Week, one of the top 10 regattas of the world,  is organized by the Antigua Hotels & Tourist Association and sponsored by Stanford International Bank Ltd.